Our hotel in the old quarter is just a couple of blocks from this jade green lake, Hoan Kiem Lake. Legend has it that during the 15th-century reign of Le Loi, a giant tortoise seized a sword the emperor had used to oust Chinese occupation forces. Formerly known as Luc Thuy (green water), the lake was thereafter dubbed Hoan Kiem (lake of the restored sword). This morning we walked on a shady path around the lake, took the red-arced Huc Bridge and visited Ngoc Son Temple (jade mountain). From there we could look across the lake at the Tortoise Tower, which is reputed to summon the lake's resident giant soft shell tortoises (we didn't see any). My memory will be of a family of FOUR, yes - that's us - strolling along. Ha strapped to my body, us sweating together, and Chris pushing Hudson in the stroller - he just turns to mush in this humidity and heat. Plus, culturally, the Vietnamese love children, and they show this affection by reaching out and touching, patting, tickling. Yes, Hudson's worst nightmare - strangers wanting to be physical with him. The stroller gives him a small barrier, and he is handling the cheek squeezes and hair tussels remarkably well.
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